Bibik Gourmand

Interior of Shisen Hanten @ Mandarin Hotel (Singapore)

Like most famous eateries, the recently opened Shisen Hanten at Mandarin Orchard Singapore has come under scrutiny by Singapore’s vocal eat-and-criticize crowd. After all, this Japanese import is no ordinary restaurant and sells more than your typical Szechuan fare.

The 15^th outlet – and first overseas outpost – of Shisen Hantenis the product of Iron Chef Kenichi Chen’s son, Kentaro Chen, whose late grandfather, Kenming Chen, founded the original Yokohama eatery in 1958. Not content with learning the ropes of the trade in his hometown, Kentaro spent 3 years (2005 to 2008) honing his mala (numbing and spicy) craft in Chengdu, the capital of China’s Szechuan province, before deciding to take his family business regional recently.

Kentaro’s Singapore foray is the brand’s first overseas debut under the stewardship of an Asia-wide (excluding Japan) franchise contract with Overseas Union Enterprise Limited (“OUE”). Perched on the 35^thfloor of Mandarin Hotel, it takes the former space of a Chinese restaurant, Mandarin Court (once named Pine Court), and was renovated to the tune of S$4 million.

Unveiled in January 2014, OUE’s franchise flagship is stunning. Sporting a lofty ceiling festooned with baccarat crystal lampshade chandeliers, the roomy gold-and-black interior boasts panoramic city views through glass-to-ceiling windows decorated with wooden blinds and elegant baccarat crystal standing lamps. The best seats in the house are the semi-private alcoves flanked by baby palm trees lining the windows but if these are taken, the round tables in the main dining room are not too shabby either.

Befitting the grandeur of space, the Szechuan fare at Shisen Hanten @ Mandarin Singapore is decidedly upscale. Aside from a dim sum menu available exclusively at lunch, the menu beckons with the usual trappings of bird’s nest soup, Buddha jumps over the wall, abalone, sea cucumber, Peking duck, suckling pig and steamed live fish, plus various lunch and dinner sets.

But Shisen Hanten’s raison d’etre is clearly Szechuan fare. The trick to having a good meal here, we feel, is to eschew the sets, sieve through the a la carte’s formulaic distractions and pick out the chillies and Szechuan peppercorn-laden gems. Thankfully, majority of these signatures are highlighted by a “signature dish” symbol although it must be said that the restaurant has also slipped in the bird’s nest soup (S$78 per person) and Buddha jumps over the wall (S$78 per person) as house signatures.

Mapo doufu with Hokkaido rice is Shisen Hanten's biggest pride and joy

Chen’s Mapo doufu (S$20 to S$40), served with Hokkaido rice, is Shisen Hanten’s biggest pride and joy. Velvety beancurd is stir-fried with minced meat in a Szechuan pepper sauce and flavoured with 3 year-fermented spicy bean paste sourced from Pi Xian (a county within Chengdu). It’s easy to be intimidated by the fiery red-and-greasy façade of the dish but, thankfully, its taste is strangely refined – if slightly smoky – and balanced without being overly spicy. If only they douse the dish with a blanket of creamy shirako (cod milt) - like they do in Japan - it may have yielded a richer finish.

Szechuan boiled fish is the biggest standout at Shisen Hanten

The Szechuan boiled fish (S$26 to S$52) is another standout. Sea perch fillet is served basking in chicken stock strewed with bean sprouts and tongue-numbing Szechuan peppercorns. Crowning the claypot is a riot of blistering dried chillies flecked with sesame seeds and parsley. Unlike the original ultra-cloying chilli oil-coated version, Shisen Hanten’s take on this popular Szechuan dish exercises restraint without taking away its spicy-numbing flavours. Better yet, one can sip on the intoxicating chicken broth while nipping away on the perfectly cooked sea perch.

Sauteed chilli pepper chicken is yet another favourite

Joining our list of favourites is Shisen Hanten’s sautéed chilli pepper chicken (S$22 to S$44), a more sophisticated take on kung pao chicken. Nuggets of cubed chicken thigh are first deep-fried in Japanese potato starch, and then stir-fried with leek plus heaps of chilli peppers. The crisp crunch of the chicken that carries a tinge of fiery spice tempered with the sweet fragrance of leek is highly addictive, to say the least.

Grilled Australian beef slices with spicy garlic

While Shisen Hanten is completely worth the schlep for these 3 signatures, there are other well made – albeit less noteworthy - small plates that will complement the meal, not least the appetizers of hot & sour soup (S$10 per person) and grilled Australian beef slices with spicy garlic (S$28 to S$56).

Shisen Hanten has risen to the occasion with tip-top execution that commensurate with a Japanese-run kitchen and we’ll happily return for its deliciously refined take on Szechuan fare. Looking at the packed room at lunch, many are in agreement with us.

Shisen Hanten | Level 35, Orchard Wing, Mandarin Orchard Singapore | 6831 6262

All photos (except Szechuan boiled fish photo) are courtesy of Diana Kwek.

Interior of Zott's

What comes to mind when you think of Alpine cuisine?

Judging from the dearth of Alpine eateries in Singapore, probably nothing except fondue.

In the book “It’s all part of the Alpine experience” (http://goo.gl/3knjkl), the author John B. McGrath defines it as a “hardy type of meal” defined by dishes like Tiroler Grostel in Austria; Weiner schnitzel in Germany, Switzerland and Austria; sausages and beer in Germany; as well as anti-pasti, salads, cured meats, hot pastas and a variety of cooked meats in Italy.

To put it simply, Alpine food is a melding of hearty, country cooking from the culture of the surrounding eight Alpine countries* with a focus on using dairy products, fruits (like apples and plums) and highland produce like game meat, lake fish and forest vegetables.

With that as a backdrop, we welcome the recent opening of Zott’s True Alps (“Zott’s), the city’s first Alpine restaurant tucked in a conservation shop house at Amoy Street (just doors away from Jigger & Pony). Named for its German businessman owner, Christian Zott, the Alpine eatery is also part gallery and part bar as evinced by the cabin-like bar on level 2 and the gargantuan for-sale paintings that line every inch of the exposed brick walls in the ground floor dining room where Hieronymus, Mr Zott’s deceased pet ox, is preserved and mounted as a glass-encased art piece smack bang in the midst of the open kitchen. To complete the Alpine experience, Zott’s also features interior aesthetics like cowbells in the bathroom, a rustic wooden alcove semi-private dining area for groups of 6 and custom-made tables with glass wrapped around recycled wood from the owner’s 50-hectare Alpine lodge in Germany.

But here’s the deal. Contrary to what we’d expect of Alpine eateries, the cuisine at Zott’s is anything but hearty or rustic. Chef Lorenz-Maria Griesser, a native of Austria, spent time working in some of Germany’s most coveted restaurants – including Restaurant 181 and, most recently, Restaurant Tantris – and, not surprisingly, he executes Mr Zott’s Alpine dream with the finesse of a French chef. Accordingly, diners pay the price for the more haute than hearty creations.

Tellerfleisch - course 1: breaded and deep-fried oyster blade

Tellerfleisch - course 2: oxtail ravioli (where is the bone marrow?)

Tellerfleisch - course 3: beef cap + prime rib

First on the to-eat list is Tellerfleisch (S$75), an Austrian staple of boiled beef. At Zott’s, several cuts of the beef boiled in its own juice are served elaborately over 3 courses: first, as breaded and deep-fried oyster blade (or flat iron); then, as a broth starring a wondrous melt-in-the-mouth oxtail ravioli with barely discernible bone marrow; and, most strikingly, as slabs of beef cap and prime rib with deliciously pungent grated horseradish alongside beautifully cooked vegetables. While boiled beef may sound like a turn-off to some, Zott’s rendition is is perfectly executed although it clearly lacks the aroma and umami of a piece of pan-seared meat.

Bouillabaisse is a standout

While Zott’s may be geographically misplaced about Marseille’s lineage to the Alpine region, there is no doubt that bouillabaisse, a Mediterranean fish stew classic that originated from France’s second largest city, is a standout. Four types of poached fish (sea bass, red mullet, scorpion fish and John Dory) are served in a shallow bath of fragrant fish broth perfumed with saffron; on the side, finger-sized toasted baby baguette beckons with a dip dish of garlic rouile (asauce made from olive oil, breadcrumbs, garlic, saffron and chili peppers). Don’t say that we didn’t warn you: at S$87 per pop (the menu says it’s meant to be shared between 2 to 3 pax), the price is piercingly astronomical. And if you attempt to share the dish between more than 2, the petite fish chunks will be badly bruised, as may your experience.

Kaiserschmarrn - the Sisi style pancake is a 'must have'

Also headlining the menu is Kaiserschmarrn, a dish of shredded pancake (Schmarrn means shredded pancake) named for the Austrian emperor, Kaiser Franz Joseph I. While this Alpine dish popularly features as a dessert in Austria and other European countries including Slovenia and Southern Germany, Zott’s offers it either sweet (traditional “Sisi style”, S$24 for dessert to S$32 for mains) with stewed plums and a scoop of vanilla ice cream or savoury (“Zott’s style”, S$29 for starter to S$45 for mains) with a slab of pan-fried foie gras alongside pineapple-accented foie gras ice cream. Let’s just say that we much prefer the traditional “Sisi style” - possibly the most rustic dish on the menu - over the foie gras overload of “Zott’s style”.

Bondage chicken tastes less appealing than it looks

Bondage Chicken (S$36), also a house signature, is less appealing. Zott’s serves this trussed young poultry either Bavarian style (with sweet paprika powder, curry, cumin and cayenne pepper) or Provencal style (with butter, thyme and salt). Pick the Bavarian option in the spirit of pursuing all things Alpine but it must be said that ours arrived with an underwhelming dull-bitter lingering taste although its flesh is justly juicy.

Anchovies with melon sorbet and pistachios

Fennel salad with orange, olive spheres and goat's cheese mousse

Apple soup with kaolin potatoes

If you’re game for more, there are some aesthetically – and palate - pleasing starters that will not look out of place in a haute French restaurant although, admittedly, their price tags are hefty for the gone-in-three-gulps portion sizes. Try the olive oil-marinated anchovies with a dollop of deliciously refreshing melon sorbet and crushed pistachios (S$26) or the fennel salad with orange, burst-in-the-mouth olive spheres and goat’s cheese mousse (S$26). We also love the delightfully sweet-and-creamy apple soup (S$26) with kaolin potatoes; less so the marinated char fish basking in it (whatever it was marinated in, it didn’t cut it for us).

Although Zott’s was quietly empty on the weekday night we visited, we are hopeful that its mostly well-executed Alpine fare will gain traction with the city’s discerning foodies. But with prices pitched near fine-dining level (about S$100 per head per head for a 3-course meal without drinks) and no tasting menu in sight, we reckon that Zott’s will need more than good food to get diners through the door.

* Alpine countries: Austria, Slovenia, France, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Slovenia, Germany and Italy

Zott’s True Alps | 97 Amoy Street | 65-6223 0913

Interior of Portico

Leandros Stagogiannis’ reputation precedes him not least because of his infamously unkempt mane; the former chef de cuisine of Saint Pierre (Apr 2012 to Mar 2013) was once a pastry chef at the coveted The Fat Duck (Feb 2006 to Apr 2008) before he landed on our shores to take on the position of head chef at the now-defunct Restaurant Fiftythree (Sept 2008 to Mar 2012).

After a 1-year hiatus, Stagogiannis recently reappeared in Singapore as executive chef of Portico, an all day diner at Alexander Road that took over the former grounds of Hosted on the Patio since last November.

Alfresco dining area at Portico

Meaning porch in Italian, Portico boasts 3 distinct dining spaces: a dull-looking bar counter by the entrance; an extensive alfresco dining area surrounded by edible herbs like laksa leaves and sweet basil; and a gorgeous day-lit main dining room decked out in trendy Nordic furnishings with floor-to-ceiling French windows framing lush views of the outdoor lounge.

Portico’s bill of fare is hearty European and augmenting the a la carte is a daily changing tasting menu (priced from S$70 for 5 courses to S$140 for 12 courses) of Stagogiannis’ Japanese-accented signatures.

Save for a dowdy red wine braised wagyu beef cheek weighed-down by a mushroom-heavy bourguignon sauce, Stagogannis’ tasting menu teemed with some delightful dishes during our recent visit at dinner.

Yakitori spiced chicken hearts

Headlining the parade was an opening dish of yakitori spiced chicken hearts so succulent that its jus threatened to spill, and flanking the skewered hearts are halved chunks of grilled corn.

Grape and quinoa salad with snap peas and fresh raspberries

The grape and quinoa salad with sliced snap peas and fresh raspberries, although a little under-seasoned, was exemplary of the chef’s less-is-more approach.

Trio of seabass with a salsa-mayo dip

The same uncluttered approach was evident in the ensuing trio of seabass – collar, belly and dehydrated skin - sourced from Pulau Ubin, grilled and/or fried with nothing but sea salt and pepper. While the seabass was luscious on its own, it tasted even better with the accompanying salsa-mayonnaise dip.

Japanee soba, kombu, truffle oil, ebi

Oodles of chilled Japanese soba tossed with chopped kombu, toasted buckwheat and a hint of truffle oil, served topped with deep-fried ebi, hinted at Stagogiannis’ Japanese culinary leaning.

Tataki of miso-marinated salmon belly with wakame salad

Light and refreshing, the tataki of miso-marinated salmon belly crowning a mound of refreshing wakame salad affirmed the chef’s deftness with Japanese ingredients.

Our picks from the a la carte were, however, less impressive.

Roasted bone marrow arrived with nary a hint of flavour

Roasted bone marrow (S$20/S$30) arrived with nary a hint of flavour despite the heap of aromatics – parsley, garlic and onions – crowning the log.

Tasting portion of fish & chips

Fish and chips (S$19), also a house signature, was well executed but probably not the best use of the much-talked-about fresh seabass; the batter that enveloped the fish was at best pedestrian. Ironically, it was the accompanying crushed peas and fresh mint that jolted us out of the lethargy of tucking into yet another formulaic battered pile.

Also a tad disappointing, the tomato and caramelized onion tart with Parmesan and Mozzarella cheeses (S$15) was redolent of pizza and lacked the crisp-crusty finesse of a well-made tart.

Notwithstanding the less-than-impressive a la carte, we applaud Stagogiannis’ comeback via his assemble of honest-to-goodness tasting menu. But given his track record, Stagogiannis has the capacity to shine even more if only he taps deeper into his inventive - and haute - instincts.

We, for one, are waiting with bated breath.

Portico | 991B Alexandra Road #01-10 | 65-6276 7337

Daniel Chavez, chef-owner of Ola Cocina del Mar

A year after Osvaldo Forlino divested his interest in Ola Cocina del Mar (“Ola”), we hotfooted it over to Marina Bay Financial Centre Tower 3 to see what’s in store. It’s been months since Pepe Moncayo, who used to run the front-of-house, left to call the shots at Bam! Tapas & Sake Bar, and now, former Santi executive chef, Daniel Chavez, has free reign of the restaurant he co-founded.

Certain things remain unchanged at Ola. Chavez still insists on using New Zealand line caught wild fish like grouper, blue cod and snapper, which he grills to order “Basque” style (from S$40 each, enquire with the restaurant on what’s available during your visit). The chef, who hails from Peru, also continues to source sustainable bluefin tuna from Spain and this arrives in the eatery every Thursday for the off-menu weekend specials such as tuna carpaccio or grilled tuna steak.

Of late, Chavez’s menu offering has undergone minor nips and tucks. To keep things exciting for returning regulars, Chavez has started offering omakase (priced from S$80 per head). To reflect his heritage, the chef has also introduced a clutch of Peruvian small plates while still staying true to Ola’s Spanish roots.

While you may sample these via the a la carte menu, we suggest the omakase for a microcosm of Chavez’s parade of blue ribbon creations.

A trio of Peruvian small plates from Ola's omakase menu

An opening trio of Peruvian small plates cannot be more apt. Other than zesty ceviche (lime cured snapper chunks with onions) and carpaccio-style tiradito (thinly-sliced lime-cured snapper in a cream and olive oil dressing), Chavez also fielded crabmeat causa, a Peruvian-Spaniard hybrid dish of aji amarillo-flavoured yellow potato salad crowned with mayonnaise-tossed shredded crabmeat.

A la plancha Hokkaido scallop from Ola's omakase menu

Plump and luscious, Hokkaido scallop was cooked a la plancha and served in chorizo and peas-flecked tomato sauce, topped with iberico ham alongside a pool of light and refreshing orange- accented caramel sauce.

Fisherman seafood soup from Ola's omakase menu

The highlight at the omakase was a rustic Iranian saffron-flavoured fisherman seafood soup (S$34 on the a la carte) served with bread, potatoes and a la plancha seafood. Instead of using flour to add texture to the soup, Chavez added Italian chickpeas and blended almond and hazelnuts, which imparted a depth of flavour to an already ethereal broth.

Squid ink fideua

If you like paella, you’d love Chavez’s squid ink fideua (S$40 on the a la carte), a Spanish short noodle. Cooked in a paella pan doused with savoury squid ink and served with deep-fried calamari and aioli, this Valencia dish won raves around the table at dinner (pity the petite tasting portion though).

Josper oven-grilled Australian rib eye steak topped with chopped chestnuts and scarmoza cheese

From the Josper grill, Chavez fielded an Australian ribeye steak in formulaic red wine sauce. But while the beef was perfectly cooked, it arrived with an underwhelming blob of chewy scarmoza cheese on its crown. And, to be perfectly honest, the morsels of chestnut that flanked the hunk of meat were not great bedfellows either. On hindsight, the Josper oven-grilled Spanish black pig with lentil stew and chimichurri sauce (S$45 on the a la carte) could have been a fail-safe option.

In case you’re still feeling peckish post Ola’s impeccably modern apple salad dessert, Chavez’s Spanish churros with warm chocolate sauce and vanilla cream (S$16 on the a la carte) is a perfectly rustic spot to end.

Ola Cocina Del Mar | 12 Marina Boulevard, Marina Bay Financial Centre Tower 3, #01-06 | Tel: 65- 6604 7050

Facade of Ujong @ Raffles

After a one-year hiatus, Shen Tan (or Madam Tan, as she is more affectionately called) of the now-defunct Wok & Barrel fame, is back.

While she is no longer calling the shots as the boss, the sprightly Tan now presides over the kitchen of two-month-old Ujong at Raffles (“Ujong”).

Interior of Ujong @ Raffles

In a slice of prized real estate at Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade once warmed by Empire Café, Ujong holds court amidst the old world charm of the former’s original setting of marble-topped tables and wooden chairs.

The colonial backdrop sets the stage for Tan’s take on Singapore cuisine, which runs on dual tracks.

Anchoring the menu is the autodidact’s chef’s star dish of nasi lemak (S$16.90 to S$19.90 depending on your choice of sides), a classic of twice-steamed coconut milk-scented rice with condiments of achar salad, ikan billis and fried egg served alongside a choice of sides (the beef rendang, 5-spice pork and crispy pork are excellent options).

Joining the classics and Tan’s now-famous modern Singapore creation of bak chor mee pasta (S$25.90) is a clutch of new creations.

Hae been hiam mentaiko capellini

Our favourite, hae bee hiam (chilli fried dried prawns) mentaiko capellini (S$25.90), packs a punch of savoury flavours with angel hair pasta tossed with cream, mentaiko, bacon and umami-packed hae bee hiam. To give the dish a kick of decadence, Tan crowns it with lip-smacking sakura ebi-infused butter and irresistibly crispy bits of lard.

Claypot rice

Tan’s take on claypot rice (S$23.90) is just as riveting - she takes a classic claypot rice recipe chock-a-block with salted fish and waxed meat (goose liver sausage and Chinese sausage), boosts the umami a few notches with the addition of dried oysters and finishes it with a smattering of lard. Instead of chicken, she gives the dish a twist with the addition of her signature 5-spice pork. Pity the missing socarrat or this great dish would have been excellent.

Har zi meen with crispy chicken

If you’re obsessed with Indomie instant noodles, try the flavoursome har zi meen (S$17.90), prawn roe noodles tossed in a heady blend comprising kicap manis, onion and garlic. While Ujong’s MSG-free take is entirely redolent of its Indomie sibling, Tan gives it her little spin by topping it with a choice of crispy pork or chicken. Yes, it’s all delicious, but we reckon that this dish has the potential to take on a greater creative spin.

Don’t leave without trying Tan’s excellent desserts even if you don’t have a sweet tooth.

We’ve tasted every single sweet created by Tan since her Wok & Barrel days, most of which are showcased at Ujong now. While they are all outstanding, we suggest the warm puloh hitam pudding (S$15.90) with a scoop of coconut ice cream, served basking in gula Melaka syrup and butterscotch. Shendol’s delight (S$15.90), Tan’s deconstructed take on chendol, is just as alluring with a silky disc of coconut panna cotta lounging in gula Melaka syrup served alongside house made red bean ice cream.

That's not all.

Knowing Tan, she’s probably getting ready a truckload of interesting recipes all ready to roll in the coming months. If you can’t wait, her nasi lemak is always a dependable option to fall back on.

Ujong @ Raffles | #01-10 Raffles Hotel Arcade | Tel: 65- 6635 6502

Facade of Siam Society

Much has been said about the rise of dining enclaves like Club Street, Keong Saik Street and Tras Street. Yet, unbeknownst to city dwellers, mini food streets are starting to blossom in suburban residential estates.

The bucolic Jalan Riang, home to rows of landed properties and numerous condominiums, is probably one of our favourite foodie neighbourhoods. While the single row of not more than 10 shop houses – many of which are still occupied by older non-food trades - does not offer much in terms of diversity, what it lacks in quantity is more than made up by the quality of its offerings.

Opened since November 2013, Thai bistro, Siam Society, is predominantly a family hangout spot for residents of the quaint neighbourhood, which probably explains why it’s packed to the gills on most weekend nights. They all come for lush and homey Thai fare cooked with the finesse of a tze char eatery but served in the air-conditioned comfort of a trendy bistro setting with concrete floor, rough brick walls and glass-wrapped floor-to-ceiling windows.

While the eatery is family-friendly, don’t come expecting watered-down Thai fare customized to the crowd of young families. Thanks to the team of four Thai cooks in the kitchen, the cooking at Siam Society veers closely to what you’ll experience in a Bangkok eatery.

Tom yum soup

Tongue-searing clear tom yum soup (S$10.90 for small/S$16.90 for large) strewed with squid and shrimps is guaranteed to clear the sinuses with its supremely hot and sour tones, yet packs a punch with balanced and light flavours.

Yellow curry prawn

The yellow curry prawn (S$17.90) stir fried with egg and onions is a standout and if you like it all saucy, its evaporated milk enriched gravy is perfect with a bowl of Jasmine rice.

Steamed seabass in chilli lime broth

Steamed seabass in chilli lime (S$31.90), which arrives lounging in a heady broth flavoured with fish sauce, palm sugar, fresh lime and Thai parsley, also gets our thumbs up, as does the immaculate Thai-style stir-fried kang kung (S$8.90) with lashings of red chillies and garlic chips.

deep-fried prawn balls with Thai sweet sauce

There are other good dishes on the menu, not least the crusty deep-fried prawn balls (S$12.90 for 8 piece) served with a side of Thai sweet sauce and lemak-fueled green curry chicken (S$12.90) with succulent round Thai eggplant.

Budget about S$30-40 per head for dinner, which we reckon is moderate to good value for a neighbourhood joint.

If you're planning on visiting over the weekend, good luck with parking.

15 Jalan Riang; 65-6286 8603

A communal table at Sugarhall

Rising in tandem with the renaissance in cocktail culture, Singapore is witnessing a flood of new eateries where the food on the plate is as compelling as the concoctions that go with it.

No, we are not referring to bite size snacks but gourmet fare fielded by chefs with credible resumes.

Catalunya has done it, as have The Black Swan and Bacchanalia. And now, joining these glorious restaurant-bars is a raft of indie operators with decidedly cozy digs but oversized ambition buoyed by the culinary capital’s newfound love affair with cocktails.

The latest to hit the ground running is rum and grill bar, Sugarhall, by the enterprising couple – Indra Kantono and Gan Guo Yi - behind one of Singapore’s hottest cocktail joints, Jigger & Pony, on the same street.

Unlike its loungy next-door big sister, Sugarhall downplays the bar vibes with a contemporary-rustic setting of sleek wood panels, mason jar hanging lamps and log-like feature walls for the idyllic barnyard feel. But make no mistake, the booming soundtrack of vintage Latin, old-school ska and Jamaican reggae is a vivid reminder of the grill bar’s lineage, as is the drink list of 18 cocktails (50% of which are infused with rums, all priced at S$22) categorized as “clear spirits”, “dark spirits” and “tropical” by bar manager, Aki Eguchi.

For Kantono and Guo Yi’s first restaurant foray, they have enlisted the services of Polo Seah, former sous chef of Skirt, to put together an enticing menu of Parilla grill-cooked meats and vegetables as well as starters and desserts.

Pork chop from the Parilla grill is a tad tough

Free-range chicken from the Parilla grill is all succulent

Maori Lakes grass fed rib eye steak

Leveraging on Seah’s grill chops at Skirt, the menu showcases a clutch of seemingly straightforward Parilla grill-cooked meats that deliver simple pleasures at rather down-to-earth prices: a generous slab of - unfortunately tough - pork chop (S$28++ for 300g) brined in salt with a side of the most intoxicating orange parsley dip; succulent whole free-range chicken (S$28++) brined in rosemary served with head and feet alongside a refreshing cucumber-flecked yoghurt that could well double-up as a dessert; and Maori Lakes grass fed rib eye steak (S$32 for 240g), best served blood rare but was a tad overcooked during our visit, flanked by a chimichurri dip that could do with a boost of garlic.

Rainbow trout

Cauliflower with bacon, capers, hazelnuts and creme fraische

Grilled Tiger prawn with Szechuan peppers

Roasted beetroot, crispy kale and mascarpone cheese

While the meats could do with minor tweaks, the starters and vegetables dazzle.

Rainbow trout (S$16++) conjures up bursts of flavours with the marriage of the most unlikely ingredients - a rectangle of watermelon, folds of thinly sliced fennel and a blob of ethereal passionfruit foam. Squares of lipstick-red roasted beetroot (S$10++) with crispy sheets of deep-fried kale on a blanket of mascarpone cheese have a winning depth of flavours matched by textures that are fun to eat. And the grilled tender florets of cauliflower (S$12++) mingle beautifully with flavourful house made bacon, capers and hazelnut with a dollop of crème fraische for an invigorating zing. Grilled Tiger prawns (S$18), also a standout, boasts surprisingly not-so-spicy Szechuan peppers in a simple but stunning preparation of herbed butter and lime.

Chocolate-laced yoghurt ice cream

At the moment, only 2 desserts are available on the menu: a classic tiramisu (S$12) and a white chocolate-laced yoghurt ice cream (S$12); they are not mind blowing but better than middling.

We reckon desserts are not Sugarhall’s strongest suits but with an alluring menu of Eguchi’s rum-based digestifs, there are heaps of liquid alternatives to fall back on.

Besides the cocktail menu, Sugarhall also showcases more than 60 types of sugar cane spirits – think English-style rums, Spanish-style rums, French Rum Agricoles as well as spiced and flavoured rums – available in 45ml jiggers (S$15-$53) or bottles (S$160 - $640).

Now, we’re talking.

Sugarhall Bar & Grill | 102 Amoy Street | Tel: 65- 6222 9102

Interior of Pisco

Recent senior staff movements at Deliciae, the holding company of L’entrecote and Sabio, don’t seem to be stifling its growth plans.

In March, the hospitality group took over management of new Resorts World Sentosa-owned eatery, Pisco South American Kitchen & Bar (“Pisco”).

Like many of the restaurants that dot the plaza leading to Universal Studios Singapore, Pisco is decidedly family-friendly.

Sporting a lofty ceiling and cheerful furnishings in a kaleidoscope of vibrant colours, Pisco looks the part of the South American kitchen that it’s intended to be, with a Parilla grill to boot in its open concept kitchen.

Drawing its influences from South America and beyond, Pisco’s menu offers a taste of garden variety South American - and Mexican - fare, perfect for young families that crowd the nearby theme parks.

Nachos

You can’t go wrong with nachos (S$11) from the tapas menu: crispy corn chips doused in a melted heap of mozzarella and cheddar cheeses alongside guacamole dip.

Croquettes

Or the ham croquettes (S$13), a finger-licking-good snack of ham, béchamel sauce and potatoes deep-fried to a golden savoury confection.

Order the burrito rather than the quesadilla

While the triangles of meat-free quesadilla with Manchego cheese (S$9) are a tad dull, the burrito (S$8) packs a punch with minced beef, onions and spicy guacamole wrapped in fluffy wheat flour tortilla.

Los pinchos: beef rib eye and octopus

But at Pisco, the piece de resistance is the menu of los pinchos (skewered meats). Parilla grill-cooked meats headlined by the hunks of fork-tender grilled beef rib eye (S$21) and deliciously chewy octopus (S$21), all served alongside a trio of lip-smacking dips (mint salsa, salsa criolla and Amarillo chili).

Salmon ceviche

Don’t leave without trying the full menu of ceviche (S$13-$15) and the churros (S$9) with warm chocolate sauce.

As far as the quality of food goes, Pisco may not be a destination restaurant. But for a casual family dinner, it’s worth a hop over if you’re in the neighbourhood.

Pisco South American Kitchen & Bar | 8 Sentosa Gateway | Tel: 65- 7695 4720 | www.pisco.sg

Interior of Saha Signature Indian Restaurant (formerly Buyan Russian Restaurant)

If you like spheres, foams and complex Indian flavours, there is a new eatery in town that delivers all the trappings of high Indian dining (complete with wine pairing) with a tinge of experimental fanfare.

Abhijit Ssaha, consulting chef of Saha

Enter Saha Signature Indian Restaurant ("Saha"), a restaurant conceptualized by the owners of Buyan Russian Restaurant ("Buyan") in conjunction with consulting chef, Abhijit Saha, the45-year-old chef-owner of Bangalore-based Caperberry, a modern European restaurant, and Fava, a Mediterranean eatery.

Occupying the former digs of Buyan’s former fine dining salon on level 2 of a conservation shop house in Duxton Road, the 3 week-old Indian restaurant retains the glorious red, yellow and wooden setting it inherits from its Russian predecessor. Everything - from the French windows, stately wooden chairs to the dome-shaped roof adorned with colourful hand-painted murals - has been retained with surprisingly successful effect to welcome its new Indian tenant.

But Saha isn’t your typical modern Indian outfit. Yes, it serves kasoor methi (dried fenugreek leaves) seared foie gras (S$36). And there’s a duck (S$38) dish on the menu, a sighting more common in European eateries than Indian, with seasonings inspired by the Chattinad region of the southern India.

Taking a leaf from his modern European books, chef Saha reinvents regional Indian cuisine and adds a modicum of contemporary – sometimes even iconoclastic - touches not yet witnessed in the city. Best of all, these are packed nicely into 2 affordably priced, bimonthly changing tasting menus catered to vegetarians (S$88) and non-vegetarians (S$98).

Istew espuma (vegetarian and non-vegetarian menu)

Headlining the 6-course tasting menu is Kerala-inspired istew espuma. Featuring chicken in the non-vegetarian menu and vegetables for those who opt to go vegetarian, the curry stew is pureed and siphoned tableside into a martini glass that arrives with a tiny dollop of orange pudding. Finished with a hint of garlic crumbs, banana chips, black olive dust and curry powder, the game-changing coconut milk-scented emulsion wins top marks for presentation. On the palate, it’s light yet the complex flavours of curry remain in full force.

Utthapam (vegetarian menu)

A notch less progressive but equally dashing from the vegetarian tasting menu, a trio of mini utthapam (fluffy pancakes made from dosa batter) topped with an onion ring, a slice of tomato and a wedge of bell pepper respectively is also well executed. Ditto the tasty dollops of tomato and beetroot chutney on the side.

A trio of curd rice (vegetarian menu)

Next, a trio of mustard seed and cashew nut-studded curd rice rewards vegetarian diners with a refreshing perspective; apart from classic flavour, there was a beetroot-accented pile and one flavoured with carrot. At Saha, each mound arrives crowned with “poriyal garden” (sautéed vegetables) featuring sprigs of drumstick pods (not chicken drumstick but horseradish tree, a fibrous vegetable) that lend a earthy note to the mild-tasting curd.

Roasted reef cod in the embrace of kokum broth

Notwithstanding an immaculate curry leaf and turmeric roasted reef cod basking in a mildly scented kokum (tropical fruit from the mangosteen family) broth, the picture is just a tad dimmer with the non-vegetarian menu.

Chettinad-inspired duck on a bed of semolina pudding

There are no missteps with the immaculate Indian flavours but the Chettinad-inspired duck on a bed of rava upma (savoury semolina pudding) arrives a tad chewy. A touch of pink within would have been perfect.

Similarly, the delicate cashew nut crusted grilled scallops are a tad overdone although the accompanying aromatic balchao (a spicy and tangy tomato-chilli sauce) spices are faultless.

Warm coconut souffle, tender coconut payasam

But all these come to rest with the arrival of the dessert: an incredibly alluring warm coconut soufflé contrasted by a chilled sweet of tender coconut payasam (vermicelli rice pudding) sorbet.

It’s true what they say that fusion cooking can sometimes go wrong. Thankfully, Saha doesn’t play with fusion of flavours. Its strength, as evinced by our dinner, is clearly the marriage of Indian flavours with inventive cooking techniques.

Chef Saha has gone where no one has dared ventured with Indian cooking in Singapore and that is something to behold. For our next visit, we have our eyes peeled on molecular spheres (spherification of tamarind-spices and mango-ginger, S$12) from the a la carte.

Like our dinner, the spheres seem incredibly promising.

Saha Signature Indian Restaurant | 9A Duxton Hill | Tel: 65- 6223 7321

Bacchanalia

A year after getting Bacchanalia off the ground, the young and enterprising owners – Raj Datwani and Alexander Chew – are working on a hotbed of new ideas, eager to get ahead of the F&B curve.

Whilst some of these remain hush-hush, it’s no secret that head chef, Ivan Brehm, and sous-chef, Mark Ebbels, have acquired green fingers and converted the once-barren compound surrounding the building into a verdant garden that will – in time to come – supply a veritable harvest of vegetables and herbs to the kitchen.

A section of the restaurant/bar - currently occupied by a private room - willalso be hived off to make way for an up coming Gaggenau-sponsored R&D lab. Expected to be up by January 2015, the lab will serve as both an internal development arm and an external consultancy business to the F&B industry on areas including menu/product development and kitchen design. It will also double up as a 10-seat chef’s table where new culinary creations will be ‘road-tested’ before they meet daylight on the menu.

Until the lab is ready next January, the chef's table experience is available in the kitchen of Bacchanalia

Until then, the savvy marketers who molded Bacchanalia from a monthly pop-up brunch to a full-service restaurant have discreetly launched an experiential 2-seat chef’s table within the confines of their induction-powered production kitchen. It’s not a sleek or glamorous spot but for purist foodie pursuits, it’s surreal to watch the dream team perform their expletives-free culinary swagger in almost squeaky-clean surrounds.

Hungry yet?

Here’s a snapshot of our chef’s table dinner (S$500++ per couple, excluding wine pairing) that features both in-development experimental dishes as well as Bacchanalia's fixtures. The menu is currently featuring an interesting array of vegetables sourced from a farm in Cameron Highlands (think sweet potatoes, fiddlehead fern and chayote squash) but here's a caveat, by the time you visit the Brehm's chef's table menu could well be different. A clutch of sake (oh, the junmai daiginjo!) is also available for pairing with your dinner and sommelier, Matthew Chan, is on hand to provide expert advice.


House-baked sour dough and focaccia bread with sun-dried tomato spread, umami butter with duck fat and sherry vinegar dip (Excellent)

Signature dish of cauliflower gratin: deep fried florets, cheese foam, gremolata and truffle oil (Excellent)

A different vegetable salad - root vegetables with watermelon radish, pomegranate seeds, fiddlehead fern and Manjimup black truffle strips on a blanket of mildly sweet banana puree emulsion and a crown of ponzu veil (Excellent)

Christophine Anchoyade* - chayote squash served on a bed of anchovy garlic paste with its own tendrils and specks of tarhana cracked wheat (Excellent)
* Anchoyade is a sauce made with anchovies, garlic, capers and olive oil

Oven-baked Arctic char with chicken jus alongside burnt spring onion puree (Excellent)

Hamachi carambola, cured-to-order hamachi with palate-jarring pickled starfruit and garlic (Average)

"French onion soup" - drink with an open mind (Good)

Deep-fried potato tart with parmesan, onion salad, Vermouth reduction (Good)

Sous-vide petite tender steak finished a la plancha with miso eggplant, confit of egg yolk, black mushroom puree and red wine jus (Average)

Sous-vide foie gras, lemongrass + tamarind jam, grated chestnuts, satay peanut sauce (Excellent)

Pre-dessert: meringues (Good)

Tiramisu with popping-candies embedded within (Excellent)

Bacchanalia | 23A Coleman Street | Tel: 65-6509 1453 | www.bacchanalia.asia

Cicheti at Kandahar Street

Amidst the deluge of Italian eateries in our tiny red dot, Cicheti is somewhat of an anomaly.

Not only is it not Italian owned, the chef at the helm is a Singaporean Chinese and, of all places, the osteria is situated smack bang in the heart of Kampong Glam, the nucleus of Muslim/Malay life and an area prolific with Arabic trades.

Ground floor dining room @ Cicheti

Upper floor dining room @ Cicheti

But this Kandahar Street newbie, which opened in November 2013, appears to have many things going for it - not least a hipster interior set in a double storey conservation shop house bedecked with weathered oak dining tables, exposed brick walls bearing quirky art works and a feature ‘cloud’ chandelier crafted with more than 2,000 recycled bulbs.

The setting is undoubtedly cool although all these come to nought if the food is anything but appealing.

Thanks to chef-patron, Yew Aun Lim, an alum of L’Operetta who co-owns the eatery with his cousin, Ong Li Ling, Cicheti trumps many of the city’s bona fide Italian eateries with a menu of disarmingly simple but well-executed small plates, pastas and pizzas.

Margherita pizza

The 10” Neapolitan pizzas baked in a Naples-imported wood-fired oven are its biggest stars. Crafted from imported Italian flour (Caputo 00 flour, no less), each pizza is topped with fior de latte mozzarella cheese and a tangy tomato sauce from Italy. Upon baking, the dough yields a subtly soft, slightly chewy feel with the scent of the wood fire enveloping the palate. Even pizza purists will be delighted with simplest margherita pizza (S$17), which arrives with nothing more than sauce, basil leaves, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. But if you like your pie loaded with goodies, Yew prescribes the bismark (S$19) that offers added ham, bacon, mushrooms and a soft runny egg yolk.

Burratina, prosciutto, rocket leaves, focaccia

Gambas in herbed butter sauce

You can’t visit Cicheti without so much as try the snacks or small plates that it’s named for. Apparently, beef meatballs (S$11) sautéed in a slow cooked tomato sauce with grana cheese shavings is a must-try. But if, like us, you’re not a fan of meatballs, the day’s special –available on most days unless they are stocked out – of burratina (S$29) comes to the fore with a generous parcel of balsamic-glazed silky-creamy cow’s milk cheese beautifully paired with the umami of prosciutto, spicy - almost bitter - rocket leaves, subtly sweet grilled nectarine and toasted focaccia. Want more? Market-fresh prawns (S$11) sautéed with parsley, served in herbed butter sauce, is also a dependable – if predictable – option.

There are no surprises with mains, just the usual suspects of pastas (all priced at S$23), cioppino (S$27), char-grilled beef (S$32) and a whole baked seabass (S$35). But with Yew in command, even formulaic dishes get a glorious sheen.

Pappardelle with slow-braised lamb shoulder simmered with porcini mushrooms

Sheets of velvety house-made pappardelle pasta (S$23) are cooked until al dente and served with cubes of slow-braised lamb shoulder simmered with generous servings of umami-packed porcini mushrooms.

Cioppino

Cichetti’s cioppino (S$27) is also first rate. The seafood stew arrives with market-fresh pan-seared seafood basking in a robust - almost intoxicating - prawn and fish broth decorated with cherry tomatoes. Finished with a dash of cream, this hearty broth can be ordered as a starter for two or mains for one.

Salted chocolate

Affogato

Restaurants rarely get them all right but at Cicheti, even the desserts are worth a mention. Molton lava chocolate cake gets a new lease of life as salted chocolate (S$12.50) while affogato (S$12.50) weighs in with a gigantic scoop of vanilla ice cream served in a glass jar alongside a single shot of espresso.

With Yew’s accomplished cooking, his careful selection of imported and local produce and affordable price points, what’s not to like about Cicheti?

Well, perhaps just the close-to-impossible parking situation at Kandahar Street.

Cicheti | 52 Kandahar Street | Tel: 65- 6292 5012| www.cicheti.com

Emmanuel Stroobant of Saint Pierre

In my salad days (when I was gainfully employed at a Fortune 500 company), Singapore’s culinary landscape was, for lack of a better word, a desert. And then, Saint Pierre came along in 2000 and swept us off our feet with Emmanuel Stroobant’s Japanese-accented modern French fare.

I was besotted with Saint Pierre’s then hole-in-the-wall eatery at Central Mall and made it my de-facto lunch spot for meetings with visiting business associates.

Over time, more fine dining restaurants opened in Singapore and Saint Pierre’s office-building venue lost its sheen.

Much to my relief, Saint Pierre moved to Sentosa, the Beverly Hills of Singapore, mid last year, hoping perhaps to hook those billionaire diners who purchase S$30million-a-pop bungalows without batting an eyelid.

While the jury is still out on whether the affluent Sentosa residents are making a beeline for dinner at Saint Pierre, the restaurant has been flooded with reservations from Stroobant’s fans from the main island.

A year after our visit to Saint Pierre’s Sentosa outpost, we return to savour its 10-course summer tasting menu. At S$148++ per head (without wine pairing), this is one degustation menu that seems to have defied the ravages of inflation.

Amuse-bouche: creme fraiche, lemon jus, ikura

#1: Confit of cherry tomato, pop quinoa, eggplant puree (Average)

#2: Deconstructed prawn cocktail (poached prawn, avocado puree, thousand island snow, pineapple reduction, quail's egg, herb emulsion) - Average

#3: Confit of egg yolk, Hollandise sauce, lemon jus, oscietra caviar (Good)

#4: Cauliflower creme brulee, gingko nut, bottarga, Japanese dashi (Excellent)

#5: Scallop, carpaccio of Jerusalem artichoke, tomato salsa, chopped almonds, black truffle shavings (Excellent)

#6: Japanese sea eel topped with sea urchin on a bed of risotto cooked in dashi and cream (Excellent)

#7: Yellow and orange carrots, baby turnips, baby beet, potato mousseline (Good)

#8: Saddle of lamb, carrot puree, leek, petit pois, sprouts, lamb jus (Excellent)

#9: Yoghurt sorbet, strawberries, almond crumble, meringue crumble (Excellent)

#10: Flourless Belgian chocolate cake with caramelised banana jam (Good)

Saint Pierre | 31 Ocean Way, #01-15 Quayside Isle | Tel: 65- 6438 0887| www.saintpierre.com.sg

Julien Royer

I first took notice of Julien Royer when I dined at Brasserie Les Saveurs back in 2011. Then, he demonstrated a level of kitchen finesse rarely seen in hotel-based dining establishments. Not only did Royer pay attention to artful plating, he had an eye for artisan produce and his haute creations reflected his culinary philosophy with delicious results. I was blown away by his 36-hour sous-vide pork belly with horseradish shavings and rosemary-smoked potatoes. A salad of organic tomato salad with burrata and a riot of Rungis market-sourced wild herbs also had us rapt.

Jaan Krug Champagne's brand ambassador

Royer made the climb to Jaan in late 2011. Not surprisingly, the French native clinched the coveted “One to Watch” award at the inaugural Asia’s 50 Best list in 2013. Late in the same year, Jaan was appointed as brand ambassador by Krug Champagne, a first in the city-state. Under Royer’s leadership, the restaurant staked a claim in the hallowed world of World’s 50 Best with a 100^th ranking in the 2014 list.

I’ve been following the career progression of Royer with much interest. Each year, I’ll make an annual pilgrimage to the 70^thstorey of Swissotel the Stamford to see what the 34-year-old chef has in store. And each year, I am greeted by the same plate-glass windows proffering one of the finest bird’s eye view of the city’s Marina Bay landscape. Whilst nothing has changed within the pretty confines of the 14-seat dining room, Royer’s cuisine has evolved.

Truth be told that, in the past, there was always a little something that the young chef could tweak in the spirit of achieving perfection: like the jarring carrot sauce that arrived with our hand-dived scallops one time, or the dashi that awkwardly accompanied the grilled Landes foie gras another.

Our 10-course menu epicure par Julien* (S$298++ per head) this time, however, was impeccable. Even with my jaded palate, I could not put my finger to a single composition that needed an improvement.

It’s well nigh impossible to pick favourites from Royer’s repertoire of well-executed signatures like the 55’ smoked organic egg or his trademark amuse bouche of mushroom tea with cep in sabayon but there are standouts worthy of a mention.

Hokkaido sea urchin, Obsiblue prawn, Kaluga queen caviar

To cash-in on the city’s new found love for all things uni (sea urchin), Royer presented a tongue of Hokkaido sea urchin on a bed of chopped Obsiblue prawn – the sweetness of the pair a perfect foil for the briny flavours from the Kaluga queen caviar that crowned the dish.

Zucchini "trumbetta"

Zucchini ‘trumbetta’ was an elegant vegetable dish of lightly poached zucchini artfully arranged on a platter with wedges of Italian tomato, creamy burrata bits, a sprig of tempura-fried zucchini flower and textures of olive (olive pearls and olive soil). If your kids don’t eat vegetables, this may be a quick – but costly – fix.

Confit rainbow trout

Fish lovers behold, you’re in good hands with Royer. He blew us away once with an Arctic char so beautifully flecked with grated burnt bread and, this trip, he fielded an exquisitely prepared confit of rainbow trout resting on wobbly tiles of Kagoshima pork belly alongside barely-there miso caramel.

Wild-caught monkfish

That’s not all. Wild-caught monfish wrapped in a thin film of ham was roasted and served basking in a saffron-accented coriander broth flanked by morsels of shellfish, the fish still moist with the umami of the cured meat clinging to its pristine flesh.

Blue Scottish lobster, barley risotto, Manjimup truffle

Yes, they were all good but the Blue Scottish lobster dish was quite unparalleled. First presented live, then brought back to the kitchen to be grilled with butter, the lobster was served on a blanket of barley risotto steeped in mushroom ketchup. As if the shellfish were not decadent enough, Royer appeared table-side with Manjimup black truffles and carefully showered the heap with shavings of black gold.

Hay-roasted pigeon

Royer’s finest moment arrived via the hay roasted Bresse pigeon set on a nest of rosemary. First presented in a Staub cast iron pot, then carved in the kitchen and returned to the table beautifully plated with corn and the pigeon’s own jus infused with liquorice, the pigeon breast was rare and juicy, a perfect counterpoint to the skinny but delightfully crisp leg that accompanied it.

I can't find a better way to conclude this piece than to say that, truly, Royer is at the top of his game. I know that this quietly ambitious chef will scale to greater heights if he continues to hone his skill.

Just you wait and see.

Jaan | Level 70 Equinox Complex, Swissotel The Stamford| Tel: 65-6837 3322 | www.swissotel.com

* note that the menu epicure par Julien is not fixed and the items featured here may or may not be served during your visit

Facade of Pince & Pints @ Duxton Road

Thanks to its well-oiled PR machine, I don’t believe that there is anything about Pince & Pints (“P&P’) that you don’t already know.

Occupying 2 units of black-and-red swathed shop house space, this new kid on the Duxton Road block by fresh-faced owner, Frederick Yap, is barely a month-old but it’s already making a splash among shellfish aficionados.

They all come for the same thing: American lobsters (or Homarus Americanus) sourced from USA and Canada, done 5 ways (all priced at S$48 each).

Grilled lobster @ Pince & Pints

You can have the lobster whole, either steamed or grilled (we suggest you go with grill on your first try), served with shoe string fries, herbed butter sauce and a side of grated Parmesan-topped mesclun leaves drizzled with cherry balsamic dressing. For shellfish lovers, it’s undoubtedly the best way to savour the simplicity and succulence of the grilled-to-order lobsters.

Lobster roll @ Pince & Pints

Or have lobster roll New England style, where an entire lobster (including its claws) is steamed, hand-shredded and tossed in mayonnaise. The chives-crowned lobster stuffing is as predictable as most gets but the bun is a standout. Made to order by a local bakery, the bun is pan-fried in butter to unveil a crisp and delightfully buttery profile before it embraces the voluptuous flesh of the shellfish. In case you’re wondering why it’s priced at S$48 a pop when other restaurants are selling it at prices as low as S$29, bear in mind that one whole lobster (yielding about 160g of meat) is used here and it may not be the case with the cheaper options (on that note, it's useful to know that several restaurants out there are purchasing American lobsters from Yap). Expect the same condiments that accompany the whole grilled lobster except that a so-thick-that-it-refuses-to-pour garlic aioli for dipping fries replaces the herbed butter sauce.

If you like it saucy, this chilli lobster is for you

If you like it hearty and saucy, the chilli lobster dish beckons. Much like Singapore’s famed chilli crab, the lobster is served basking in a sweet and tangy (just mildly spicy) tomato-based sauce with fried man tou (Chinese buns) on the side. If you need more mantou to wipe up the intoxicating sauce, a set of 5 is available at S$3.50 each.

Still hungry? You may have to hop over to Dibs or Etna for desserts. Whether you like it or not, that’s all on offer at P&P at the moment. There are talks of menu expansion to include dishes like XO sauce wok-fried lobster with rice and ee fu noodles with lobster but it’s unlikely you’ll taste these any time soon.

But if you’re in the mood for drinks, it’s worthwhile chilling out at the 8-seat bar counter for the rather-extensive menu of craft beers, wines and wallet-friendly cocktails.

Did we mention that P&P does not take reservations? Be here at 6pm or get ready to queue.

Pince & Pints | 32/33 Duxton Road | Tel: 65- 6225 7558 | www.pinceandpints.com

Milagro at Orchard Central

Of the spate of nondescript mall-based eateries that flood Orchard Road each year, many fade into the sea of oblivion.

But 4 month-old Milagro caught my attention of late.

Canteen-esque setting @ Milagro

It’s not a hip and hype-worthy Dean & Deluca-type outpost but a minimally embellished outfit dressed in nothing more than dull concrete floor and an army of colourful hanging lamps.

This canteen-esque setting is where first time restaurateur, Raymond Chong, a recent graduate of a local university, proffers Spanish fare prepared completely by a non-Spanish kitchen crew.

“I spent 6 months in Denmark for an exchange programme; whilst on vacation in Madrid and Barcelona, I acquired a passion for Spanish cuisine,” says Chong, a double degree holder in accounting and finance.

Chong is neither a cook nor a gourmand but he manages to put his decent palate to good use by distilling a fuss-free menu of Spanish tapas (and some mains) for Milagro at prices that will not break the bank.

Unless you’re really hungry, skip the formulaic menu of olives, fried potatoes, croquettes and Spanish tortilla.

Cold soup chupitos

Take a respite from the heat with cold soup chupitos (S$8), a trio of cold soup shooters featuring gazpacho (peppers, cucumber and tomatoes), ajo blanco (garlic and almond) and melon gazpacho.

Padrón peppers

Try the blistered Padrón peppers (S$11), mildly sweet and fleshy peppers – not unlike shishitos - grilled with nothing but olive oil and a dash of sea salt. Unless grown near hot peppers like jalapenos, padrón peppers are generally not spicy so it’s impossible to predict the luck of the draw.

Seafood at Milagro is also a must-have.

Galician-style octopus

Octopus (S$17) is first boiled then served Galician-style alongside fried potato cubes with olive oil, sea salt and a dust of paprika; the boiled octopus’ natural briny flavour pairs flawlessly with its slightly chewy-tender texture.

Sherry wine-spiked clams

We also adore the sweet broth that arrives with the Sherry wine-spiked clams (S$9). That said, a plumper variety of clams does not hurt.

Milagro also has an extensive menu of meats bookended by porky dishes: suckling pig (S$238 for whole pig, S$148 for half, S$28 for tapas) and Spanish Iberian pig (S$26).

Spanish Iberian pig, quince jam, mashed potatoes

While the jury is still out on how Milagro’s suckling pig stacks up against the competition, we can say with certainly that the Spanish Iberian pig (S$26) is aptly succulent. Served with quince jam and resting on a velvety bed of mashed potatoes, the meat arrives pretty in pink, albeit lacking a lick of char.

Paella Valenciana

The paella Valenciana (S$47) also shows potential. Served with crisp chicken chunks and French beans basking in rice steeped in an aromatic blend of smoked paprika and saffron, the paella needs just a layer of socarrat to achieve paella perfection.

Torrija

For desserts, skip the formulaic churros (S$5) in favour of torrija (price not available), the Spanish equivalent of French toast is served here with a dollop of inspiring kaya ice cream, a perfect counterpoint to the savoury toast.

Milagro may lack the charm of a Spanish-run digs but who's to say that it's not good?

Milagro | #08-06/07 Orchard Central | Tel: 65- 6238 6248


Facade of Grand Mandarin at New Bridge Road

If you ever tire of the hoards of cookie cutter-type Chinese restaurants that flood local malls, take note of new indie Chinese eatery, Grand Mandarin, located on the fringe of Chinatown, whose executive chef boasts a resume studded with stints at big-name fusion Chinese dining institutions including the now-defunct Club Chinois (Singapore) and Hakkasan (New York).

Ground floor space at Grand Mandarin

Upper deck @ Grand Mandarin

Occupying 2 stories of roomy digs in a standalone building along New Bridge Road, its ground level space is aptly grand with thick carpets, matt silver walls and a soaring ceiling while the upper deck is decidedly more intimate with a cozy mirrored dining room plus 2 private rooms.

The bill of fare is Cantonese, some outrightly classical and others served with a decidedly modish twist.

Starter platter

From the starter platter, a disc of petite braised baby abalone (S$30, off menu) served shell-on with crab sauce passes muster, as does deep-fried soft shell crab (S$18) ensconced in curry powder dusted pork floss. But a lobe of foie gras terrine (S$24, off menu) from the same platter is let down by flaky texture and muted flavour, while a swirl of Champagne jelly that adorns it looks on helplessly.

Notwithstanding that, there are many hits.

Char siew is the best dish in the house

Char siew (S$15) is a must-have at Grand Mandarin. Made from pork loin cut with a gorgeous rim of fats, the roasted char siew is glazed with honey and torched to unveil a cape of caramelized façade while the succulent meat remains tender to the bite.

Roasted chicken with spicy black sauce

Roasted chicken (S$20) also deserves a mention. The skin is first carved – just like the crisp skin of suckling pig – then served atop succulent sliced chicken meat smeared with a layer of peppercorn-spiked spicy black sauce.

Garlic-crusted baked cod

While we usually avoid codfish, we would devour Grand Mandarin’s garlic-crusted baked cod (S$22) wholeheartedly for its winning marriage with minced garlic that masks the rich and oily flavour of the Omega 3-rich fish.

Roasted duck with Perigord truffle sauce

If there’s one dish that brandishes the restaurant’s modern stance, it’s the quintessential Cantonese roast duck doused in a savoury Perigord truffle-accented sauce. A resident signature, this dish wins raves for its rounded taste lent by the sauce prepared with Perigord truffles (rather than the more pungent truffle oil), although you should not expect to see truffle shavings like in haute restaurants.

Stir-fried vermicelli

Need a filler? Stir-fried crystal vermicelli with pork collar in XO sauce (S$28) is a decent - if chewy - choice.

Don’t miss the wild-caught empurau fish (S$880 per kg, minimum 3kg) if you’re out to impress. We wish we could tell you how moist and pristine the fish is but in the absence of our personal recommendation, defer to your imagination.

If the char siew is any indication, it should be off the charts delicious.

Grand Mandarin | 325 New Bridge Road #01/02-00 | Tel: 65- 6222 3355 | www.grandmadarin.com.sg

Corner House @ Singapore Botanic Gardens

Barely three months after the April 2014 demise of Au Jardin, a new French restaurant has come into being on the grounds of the much-loved black-and-white colonial bungalow (circa 1910) at the Singapore Botanic Gardens.

Named Corner House, for E J Corner who resided in the property for 13 years during his 16 years tenure as the Assistant Director (1929 to 1945) of the Botanic Gardens, the heritage building continues to hold court majestically from its perch on a grassy knoll near the Visitor Centre. Its interior, however, has benefited from a minor facelift under the wings of new owner, Renny Heng of Wine Culture.

Claret Corner on the ground floor of Corner House

Looking all bright and cherry, the ground floor now features a marble-clad bar, a reading corner with lounge seats and a semi-private 8-seat Claret Corner next to the wine cellar.

Upper deck dining room at Corner House

Up a flight of staircase, the upper deck retains the charm of its predecessor with the same glass-clad windows proffering lush views of the wooded surrounds. But in place of starched linens, the tables are sheathed in faux leather and these are paired with plush armchairs upholstered in textured fabric of neutral tones.

If the now-defunct Au Jardin were the grand dame of fine dining, Corner House is swiftly rising to the occasion with its dainty French-inflected cuisine – aptly named “gastro-botanica” – that comes complete with a parade of amuse bouche and petit fours, all deftly executed with aesthetics so exquisite that diners may be left wondering if a native French were at-the-helm.

Well, no.

Not that it hurts. Chef-patron and co-owner, Jason Tan, was the 2008 champion of Bocuse d’Or Singapore and an alum of Julien Bompard @ Ascott, Robuchon a Galera (now known as Robuchon au dome) and Sky on 57. If Tan were once deemed a relative unknown in the fine dining circuit, a recent dinner here confirms that he will not stay under the radar for long.

Following in the footsteps of its fine-dining brethren, Corner House eschews the a la carte in favour of a quarterly changing 8-course Discovery menu (S$248++, 8 courses excluding amuse bouche and petit fours). For those with a lesser appetite, there is a 4-course set (S$98++) and a 6-course set (S$148++) where diners can pick from a selection of 12 items (appetizers, starter, main and dessert) of which 4 items require a top-up charge of between S$12 to S$18.

A signature at Corner House: Cevennes onion done 4 ways

From the Discovery menu, Tan showcases a quarterly-changing interpretation of his favourite vegetable via a mini degustation – Cevennes onion done four ways. First, the mildly sweet onion puree is served with sous-vide egg and topped with grated Manjumup black truffles ensconced in a hollow Cevenne onion shell. A wafer-thin crisp onion tart topped with onion confit and Parmesan follows, as does an onion chip. To conclude, onion tea infused with earl grey-spiked silver needle is served tableside crowned with an emulsion of onion confit.

Carabinero prawn

Carabinero prawn, a Tan signature, follows. Instead of playing a star role, the Carabinero takes on secondary importance in an artful composition alongside tomatoes in various postures: quenelle of tomato with red capsicum sorbet, tomato cloud topped with olive oil caviar, a whole plum-marinated cherry tomato and a whole cherry tomato marinated in Thai basil and honey. Taking centrestage on the plate is a dramatic display of deep-fried, dehydrated prawn whiskers crowned with Kristal caviar from China.

The botanical aspects of the cuisine take a backseat in the ensuing courses.

Maine lobster, riso pasta, squid

Maine lobster is slow poached and served on a savoury toss of riso pasta, cubed squid and puffed chopped soba. A sliver of burnt leek that tops the dish lends a smoky depth to the mound while a cloud of apple cider emulsion cuts any hint of richness.

New Zealand cod "crispy scales"

New Zealand cod arrives majestially skin-side up with a crown of crispy fried scales - flanked by shiso flowers - unveiling moist, oil-bathed flesh. Resting below the heap is a riot of savoy cabbage, petit pois and baby carrots basking in a pool of creamy Vin Jaune egg-less sabayon. Even if you don’t love cod, this may get you hooked.

Free range chicken in surf and turf sauce

The free-range chicken dish is also a winner. Moist and succulent, the sous-vide chicken breast and compressed chicken thigh arrive in an intoxicating surf-and-turf sauce of prawn stock-flavoured chicken and veal jus with foie gras butter skirted by a sprig of burnt Romaine lettuce.

Foie gras a la Chinoise

The oriental-style foie gras soaked in braise liquid is decidedly less impressive, let down by miserly portion (even by haute standard, it’s miserly) and an awkward marinate. However, we have no complaints with the accompanying mango puree and pickles.

Cocoa "pebbles" is a work of art

We reckon the dessert of cocoa "pebbles" is more visually appealing than it is delicious but

there is no denying that it’s a work of art: lemon curd embedded in cocoa “pebbles” on coarse chocolate soil with mandarin sorbet “shimeji” and shimeji pickled in lemon syrup.

Corner House has performed beautifully on its debut and, thanks to stable mate, Wine Culture, its 600 label-strong wine menu is no less impressive. But “gastro-botanica” is a bold name for a cuisine that should rightly put the spotlight exclusively on vegetables and strictly, on that score, its name underdelivers.

Notwithstanding that, Tan is a class act.

“Gastro-botanica” or not, Corner House is going down in our books as one of Singapore’s best new openings in 2014.

Corner House | 1 Cluny Road, Singapore Botanica Gardens (Nassim Gate), E J H Corner House | Tel: 65-469 1000

Tess Bar & Kitchen @ Seah Street

Unless we're tasked to write a cocktail story, we don’t often track down the best cocktail bars and rarely do we blog about them. But Tess Bar & Kitchen (“Tess”) – named for its address at Thirty-Eight Seah Street – recently caught our eye.

It’s not just because former Bitters & Love bartender, Steven Long, presides over the bar, which, by the way, serves up some incredibly delicious cocktails (both bespoke and classics). Try Scandalous Pear (S$21), a concoction of gin, lemon, egg white and pear with port puree, from the list of 12 house signatures on the menu; alternatively, just profile your favourite flavours to Long and he’ll shake-up something for you.

The lounge

The sua wood communal dining table

Thanks to one of the owners, who founded Singapore’s foremost designer furniture and lighting boutique, the 60-seat low-lit space is a minimalist stunner. Comprising 3 distinct spaces: a lounge; a main dining area next to a well-stocked bar; and a sua wood communal dining table for bigger groups, the establishment is dotted with branded designer furniture and lightings that will put the vast majority of furniture galleries to shame, think low-slung Eames LCW lounge chairs, Magis Stool_One bar stools and Foscarini Diesel wall lamps. The sand-down walls lined with swatches of railway sleepers and treated corroded steel pieces give the place a rough hewn warmth, balanced by the clean lines of the designer pieces.

Baby octopus, chorizo, sundried tomatoes

Mushrooms with pumpkin puree ravioli

Wagyu cubes with bone marrow

Deep-fried pork belly

With former L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon sous chef, Martin Wong, helming the semi-open kitchen, the gourmet bar bites are hardly an afterthought. Standouts from our tasting included a salad of baby octopus with chorizo and sundried tomatoes (S$9), a medley of mushrooms with pumpkin puree-stuffed ravioli (S$10) and, if you want mains to share, wagyu cubes on a log of luscious bone marrow (S$28). Also order the crispy pork belly (S$9), a house signature; instead of roasting the tile of meat to perfection, Wong tosses it into a deep fryer after time in the sous-vide machine. It’s not the best we’ve had but it’s worth a try. The smoked duck breast with foie gras teamed with braised lentils and blueberry compote (S$16.80), however, does not do justice to an otherwise smooth-sailing dinner, no thanks to the use of commercially available smoked duck (a hunk of the more pricey magret de canard would have worked magically).

All’s cool with Tess if you have a glass of cocktail in hand and order the right bites. Surrounded by the right companions, this is one place we wouldn’t mind hanging out all night.

Tess Bar & Kitchen | 38 Seah Street | Tel: 65- 6337 7355

Alba 1836 - does this not transport you to Italy?

Before you throw your hands up in the air and let out a yawn at yet another addition to the crowded Italian dining scene in Singapore, pay heed to what Duxton Road newbie, Alba 1836, will bring to the table.

In an atmospheric conservation shop house just steps away from Craig Place Car Park, a set of mysterious glass doors swing open to unveil – arguably - Singapore’s most stylish Italian.

The nucleus of Alba 1836: is a charming inner courtyard

Glass-padded wine cellars at the entrance

At the nucleus of the space is a glass-topped inner courtyard smartly kitted in a black-and-white palette with strangely-charming grey tones. Surrounding it are a kitchen shielded from prying eyes by louvred French windows, a bar bedecked with designer hanging lamps, a spaciously dim-lit main dining room that opens out to an alfresco terrace and, last but not least, glass-padded wine cellars for the 200 label-strong wine list.

Alessandro Frau is the face to watch in the Italian fine dining space

The culinary poster boy roped in to consult at this Italian fine diner is Sardinian native, Alessandro Frau, chef-owner of Acqua Phuket who achieved somewhat of a celebrity chef status after he triumphed at Thailand’s Iron Chef TV show last year. As one would expect of jet-setting consulting chefs, Frau conceptualized the menu but will not be on the ground daily. Holding the fort this end is local kitchen anchor, Luca Piras, a Sardinian native with a colourful resume having worked his way across Italy, Australia and now Singapore.

For his maiden debut in metropolitan Singapore, Frau has distilled a decidedly upscale menu studded with contemporary Italian creations. Of note are Frau’s deftly executed seafood dishes, which, in our humble opinion, are out to give the city’s modern Italian brethren a run for their money.

Sicilian red prawn

Plump Sicilian red prawn (S$55), also called the carabineros of Sicily, is served raw with flavours of the sea mingling with a refreshing kiss from the olive oil and lemon that it is marinated in. On the side, the prawn’s own carapace is baked on an island of toasted panino, the receptacle absorbing the rich and savoury goodness of the crustacean’s dramatic crown.

Carpaccio of Hokkaido scallops

Sweet and luscious, lemon-marinated Hokkaido scallops (S$30) are served carpaccio style with sliced asparagus and Italian black truffle shavings; a faint drizzle of truffle essence nudges the dish from delicious to the realm of transcendental.

Octopus salad

Octopus salad (S$28) is another standout. The mollusk is cooked on a sous-vide machine for 14 hours until tender; its flesh is then sliced into thin slivers and crowned with stocky chunks of tentacles. Teamed with Taggiasche olives, fennel leaves and celery bits, the match is simply beyond reproach.

The picture is equally rosy outside seafood.

Grilled pecorino cheese with chestnut honey and fresh figs

Pungent Sardinian pecorino cheese (S$22) is grilled until the crust turns golden brown and the insides slightly softened, then drizzled with chestnut honey and paired immaculately with in-season fresh figs.

Saffron risotto with stacchino cheese, caviar and sea urchin

Then, there is saffron steeped risotto (S$40), served perfectly al dente and topped with a triumvirate of creamy stracchino cheese, smoked Avruga caviar and sea urchin. Unlike the Japanese fresh sea urchin that leaves a sweet and creamy flavour on the palate, the canned Mediterranean variety that Frau uses evokes a sharper taste with an ending note of subtle bitterness. Unusual, yes but equally irresistible.

Suckling pig, New Zealand scampi, chickpea puree

If there is one dish we love less, it’s the little planks of suckling pig paired with New Zealand scampi (off menu). Arranged artfully on a bed of chickpea puree flanked by potato mille feuille, the pig – a tad salty from a generous dose of salt - pales in comparison to the outstanding fore courses.

It’s difficult to think about Alba 1836 without our mouth watering. It’s been quite a while since we’ve encountered Italian cooking so fine, so confident and so delightful. Best of all, it’s matched front of house by tip-top service courtesy of general manager, Michele Zanella, a wine lover who knows the Italian wine labels stocked here like the back of his hands.

Now, if only someone will convince Frau that now is a good time to put together a tasting menu of his signatures. We are convinced that there will be plenty of takers. But as Frau may tell you, it’s still early days.

Alba 1836 | 28 Duxton Hill | www.alba1836.com | Tel: 65-6222 2048


Sebastian Lepinoy @ Les Amis

In the hallowed world of haute dining, Les Amis is a name revered for many reasons.

Besides being a fine dining stalwart that has stood the test of time, 20 years to be precise, the French fine diner is the birthplace of many of the city’s finest chefs, sommeliers and restaurateurs (immediately Justin Quek, Gunther Hubrechsen and Ignatius Chan come to mind).

Over time, it has also spawned a series of F&B concepts locally and overseas, all parked in the stable of what is now called the Les Amis group. But its chandeliered flagship at Scotts Road, where a dinner with wines at one time commanded a king’s random (prices have been scaled down to more earthly levels of late), remains the group’s crown jewel.

In mid 2013, Sebastien Lepinoy was tasked to head up the Les Amis kitchen shortly after the closure of Cepage (Hong Kong), where the former executive chef of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Hong Kong) held the reins for 3 years. We recall dining at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Hong Kong) in year 2007, when the northwards-depilated chef commanded the kitchen with the keen eyes of a hawk. That austere air about Lepinoy still lingers, as does his clean-cut – almost monastic - disposition.

In the kitchen, Lepinoy’s approach is classical French with Japanese nuances, served table d'hote-style - Menu Découverte (S$160 for 8 courses) or Menu Épicurien (S$220 for 8 courses). There is also an a la carte menu made available upon request.

To begin, a solitary poached egg yolk - more dense than creamy -sandwiched between discs of Melba toast is topped with glistening Kristal caviar. The weighty yolk is not the perfect foil for the precious black pearls; and the creamy tongue of sea urchin on the side does not help to cut the richness either.

Thankfully, it gets better from here.

Briny pleasures from the same Kristal caviar sparkle on petals of crème fraiche-glazed Roseval potatoes artfully arranged with shiso flowers and petite squares of salmon.

Chunks of succulent Maine lobster mingle with a blend of chopped truffles and langoustine mousse, the parcel arriving enrobed in a layer of gorgeous-green steamed spinach leaf surrounded by fish bone sauce. Matched with ruby-red ikura pearls, it’s visually arresting and even more palate pleasing (think briny, creamy and savoury in a bite).

Lepinoy’s mushroom tart is a study in architectural restraint: a trio of mushrooms (French cep, Korean oyster and French girolle) is carefully strewed on a stubby tower of phyllo pastry blanketed with a mush of creamy mashed eggplant. There is beauty in how something so simple can taste so robust.

Macaroni en “gratin”, on the other hand, is not as straightforward as it sounds. An army of macaroni is topped with béchamel sauce, aged Comte, chopped truffle as well as bacon bits, and then caramelized from an encounter with the Salamander oven. Served with a sprinkle of chopped chives, it’s a deliciously busy dish where all the ingredients are sharing the plate in a harmony of umami.

The kitchen also has an equally winning way with mains.

Line-caught bone-in turbot fish from Brittany is pan-roasted, the stripped of its crust to reveal firm white flesh so moist and sweet that the escorting thick choron sauce seems completely unnecessary.

Grilled dry-aged Omi beef tenderloin blanketed with a cocktail of Djon mustard, butter, cream - with punctuations of extremely gentle tellecheri pepper – in veal jus is also crowd pleaser, more so when it's served with buttery mashed potatoes.

But the rave is not without its reservation.

Jean-Yves Bordier’s beurre

At Les Amis, there are no canapés or amuse bouche to speak of. Immediately upon seating, you are presented with cones and rectangles of Jean-Yves Bordier’s beurre (unsalted, salted, smoked salted, seaweed and sweet chilli) arranged on a platter to go with your choice of breads. Nothing more.

Sans the luxury of snacks and all, a dinner at Les Amis can still be immensely satisfying. It’s not as elaborate as some of its peers but it’s not as pricey too. Plus, you get a French chef who’s trained with one of the world’s best in French gastronomy and who's finally developing a distinctive style unique to himself.

Les Amis | 1 Scotts Road, #02-14/16 | www.lesamis.com.sg | Tel: 65- 6733 2225

Shisen Hanten (Singapore)

Zott's True Alps (Singapore)

Portico (Singapore) by Leandros Stagogiannis

Revisited: Ola Cocina del Mar (Singapore)

Ujong @ Raffles (Singapore)

Siam Society (Singapore)

Sugarhall Bar & Grill (Singapore)

Pisco South American Kitchen & Bar (Singapore)

Saha Signature Indian Restaurant (Singapore)

Chef's table at Bacchanalia (Singapore)

Cicheti (Singapore)

Saint Pierre (Singapore) Revisited

Jaan's 2014 Summer Menu with Julien Royer

Pince & Pints (Singapore)

Milagro Spanish Restaurant (Singapore)

Grand Mandarin (Singapore)

Corner House (Singapore) by Jason Tan

Tess Bar & Kitchen (Singapore)

Alba 1836 (Singapore)

Les Amis (Singapore) with Sebastien Lepinoy